My legs are probably going to be a bit sore, I think, as I gasp for air. I let my fingers dust the stone wall beside me, mindful of the poison ivy and some thorny vines, with the sneaking suspicion I may just collapse at any moment. Every traveler that passes going back down briefly makes eye contact with a knowing, encouraging glance that seems to say, it's worth it, keep going!

Sebastian, his Dad, and I are tempted to stop at the first level lookout area that has shade and benches, but its already full.

No, let's go higher.

So we go higher. The second level lookout area has a view that is blocked by a tree, where no one sits.

No, let's go higher still.

We reach a somewhat small incline of about 15 degrees with a small, sunny meadow in front with just the view of the city we're looking for; the castle, churches, bridge, all framed by trees. We can step up on a ledge to see even better.

With plans on climbing the tower of the Heiliggeistkirche Church later, I need to save some energy.

Going down is just as tricky because the cobblestone paths are now going against us and stick up waiting to catch toes. I keep lagging behind, stopping to take pictures as an excuse for catching my breath. I'm going to be very, very sore tomorrow, but for the best panoramic views of Heidelberg, it pays to climb up the Schlangenweg, snake path. Named appropriately due to its winding path, before you get to see the stunning views, you will have to walk UP about 1600 feet. It is a steep climb and not recommended when the path is slippery. Schlangenweg trail connects downtown Heidelberg starting at the Old Bridge up to the Philosophenweg, the philosopher's path.

Take a left at the end of the Schlangenweg to continue on the Philosophenweg path for about 2.5 miles. It will end in the Neuenheim city part of Heidelberg, more of a residential area. Head south to the Theodor-Heuss-Bruecke, which is the closest bridge to get you back to downtown Heidelberg. If you do not want to walk the Philosophenweg, you can head down the Schlangenweg back to where you started.

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One of my favorite city souvenirs is local sweets, and Heidelberg has a great piece of edible history that you can take home with you and share. It is called Studentenkuss, which translates to student kiss. It is made with nougat on a waffle bottom, covered in dark chocolate. Let’s dive into the history of this product for a moment and imagine Heidelberg in 1863.

During the nineteenth century, young women were often only allowed in public, when they were accompanied by aunts or older sisters. Contact or meetings with men were therefore only possible under the supervision of an extra set of watchful eyes. The Café Knösel in Heidelberg became a popular meeting point for young ladies of the local girls' boarding school, but also for students of the Ruprecht-Karls-University.

Café operator and confectioner Fridolin Knösel invented the student kiss in 1863, a delightful, sweet treat. The chief attraction, besides the great taste, was the packaging. The student kiss chocolate came in a small box, often accompanied by a handwritten message which could not be seen by the chaperones of the young women. This made it much easier for the young men to flirt and communicate with the adored girl. Even without a handwritten message, printed on each chocolate foil, is a student of a student union with student cap and a young woman right before they are about to kiss. If you receive a chocolate like this, you know that someone has feelings for you.

Much time has passed since 1863, but the students kiss chocolate still exists today as an amicable reminder of bygone, romantic times. The sweet idea of Fridolin Knösel developed into a small piece of Heidelberg's history and is still produced fresh several times per week. The original Café Knösel, where the Heidelberg student kiss was invented, was sold and does not belong to the Knösel family anymore. The student kisses, however, are still made and sold by the Knösel siblings, two houses away from Café Knösel.

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